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TUFTS   UNIVERSITY   LIBRARIES 


3   9090  013  418  435 


I 


Websier  Family  Library  of  Vetennary  Madioine 
CufTimlngs  School  of  Voterinary  IViedicine  at 
Tufts  University 
200  Westbcro  Road 
North  Grafton.  MA  01536 


PLAIN  TREATISE 


or 


HORSE-SHOEING, 


WITH   ILLUSTRATIONS. 


BY 


WILLIAM  MILES,  Esq., 

AUTHOR  OF  "the  HORSE'S  FOOT,  ETC." 


PHILADELPHIA: 
HENRY   CAREY   BAIRD, 

(successor   to   E.   L.   CAREY,) 
Ko.  7  HART'S   BUILDIXGS,    SIXTH   ST.   ABOVE   CHESTNUT. 

1856. 


t^, 


STEREOTYPED   I!Y    L.   JOHNSON   b  CO. 

PHIl.ADELPHIA. 
PRINTED   BY  T.  K.  ANB   P.  G.  COLLINS. 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Horse-Shoeing 5 

Preparing  the   Foot 7 

The  Shoe 12 

Choosing  a  Shoe 13 

Cutting  off  the   Heels 14 

The  Nail-Holes IG 

Fitting  the  Shoe 19 

Filing  up  the  Shoe 29 

Nails '. 80 

Nailing  on  the  Shoe 32 

Shoeing  with  Leather 34 

The  Hind-Shoe 37 

Cutting 42 

Bemoving 42 

General  Observations '. 44 


C'^ 


I- 


HORSE-SHOEING. 


It  has  been  suggested  to  me,  by  several  corre- 
spondents, that  a  plain,  practical  treatise  on  Horse- 
Shoeing,  divested  of  all  other  matters,  connected 
with  the  soundness  of  the  horse's  foot,  would  be 
very  acceptable  to  many  working  smiths,  who  have 
neither  the  time  nor  the  inclination  to  wade  throusrh 
a  work  where  what  they  want  to  find  is  mixed 
up  with  other  matters,  which  do  not  bear  upon 
their  vocation.  To  the  production  of  such  a  treatise 
I  now  set  myself,  in  the  hope  that,  however  much 
I  may  fall  short  of  my  wishes,  I  may  still  in  some 
degree  supply  a  want  which  has  long  been  felt  by 
many.  The  books  at  present  in  use  are  written 
in  a  style  that  most  smiths  find  it  difficult  to 
follow;  my  aim,  therefore,  shall  be  to  convey  the 
information    I    have    to   ofier  in    the  simplest   lan- 

1«  5 


6  TREATISE   ON   HORSE-SHOEING. 

guage  I  can  command,  and  such  as  the  least- 
informed  among  them  are  familiar  with.  But,  be- 
fore I  enter  upon  the  subject  of  shoeing,  I  must 
notice  two  things,  which  we  must  not  only  believe, 
but  act  upon,  if  we  ever  hope  to  arrive  at  really 
good  shoeing:  the  first  is,  that  nature  has  given 
to  what  horsemen  call  a  good-shaped  foot  the 
form  best  suited  to  the  horse's  wants;  and  the 
second  is,  that  the  hoof  expands  when  the  horse's 
weight  is  thrown  upon  it,  and  contracts  when  it 
is  taken  off  again.  But  the  mere  belief  in  these 
things  will  be  of  no  use,  unless  we  make  the  shoe 
to  fit  the  foot,  and  nail  it  on  in  such  a  manner 
as  will  allow  the  hoof  to  expand  and  contract; 
for  we  might  as  well  not  believe  at  all,  as  believe 
a  thing  to  be  right,  and  not  do  it. 

Nailing  an  iron  shoe  to  a  living  horse's  foot  is 
a  very  unnatural  thing  to  do;  but,  as  it  must  be 
done,  it  is  our  duty  to  see  how  we  can  do  it 
with  the  least  injury  to  the  horse.  To  show  this, 
I  will  suppose  myself  addressing  a  young  smith, 
who  is  about  to  shoe  his  first  horse. 


PREPARING   THE   FOOT.  7 

PREPAKING  THE  FOOT. 

You  must  begin  by  taking  off  one  of  the  old 
sboes^  and  I  say  one,  because  the  other  should 
always  be  left  on,  for  the  horse  to  stand  upon : 
he  is  sure  to  stand  quieter  upon  a  shod  foot  than 
he  can  upon  a  bare  one;  and  it  will  prevent  his 
breaking  the  crust.  Raise  every  one  of  the  clenches 
with  the  buffer,  and,  if  the  shoe  will  not  then 
come  off  easily,  loosen  some  of  the  nails  with  the 
punch;  but  never  tear  the  shoe  off  by  main  force: 
it  splits  the  crust,  and  widens  the  nail-holes.  .  The 
shoe  being  off,  you  should  rasp  the  edge  of  the 
hoof  all  round,  and  take  out  any  stubs  that  may 
be  left  in  the  crust.  Then  you  must  pare  out  the 
foot;  and  this  requires  both  care  and  thought.  If 
the  horse  has  a  strong,  upright  foot,  with  plenty 
of  horn,  you  should  shorten  the  toe,  lower  the 
heels  and  crust,  and  cut  out  the  dead  horn  from 
the  sole,  and  also  from  the  corners  between  the 
heels  and  the  bars;  the  best  way  of  doing  this 
is   to   pare   the   bars   down    nearly   even   with    the 


8  TREATISE  ON   HORSE-SHOEING. 

sole,  and  then  you  can  get  at  the  dead  horn  in 
the  corners  more  easily.  The  part  of  the  bar 
which  stands  up  above  the  sole  would  have  been 
worn  away,  or  broken  down,  if  the  shoe  had  not 
kept  the  hoof  off  the  ground  5  therefore  you  had 
better  always  pare  it  down,  but  on  no  account 
ever  cut  any  thing  away  from  the  sides  of  the  bars, 
or  what  is  called  "open  out  the  heels;"  and  be 
sure  that  you  never  touch  the  frog  with  a 
knife.  Now  remember  that  there  are  three  things 
which  you  must  never  do  in  paring  out  a  foot: 
you  must  never  cut  the  sides  of  the  bars,  or  open 
out  the  heels,  or  pare  the  frog;  and  I  will  tell 
you  why  you  must  never  do  them. 

The  bars  are  placed  where  they  are,  to  keep 
the  heels  from  closing  in  upon  the  frog;  and  if 
you  trim  them  by  cutting  their  sides,  you  weaken 
them,  and  they  can  no  longer  do  it,  and  the  foot 
begins  to  contract. 

Opening  out  the  heels  does  exactly  the  same 
thing,  by  weakening  the  very  parts  which  nature 
placed   there    to   keep    the   heels    apart.       Now    it 


*4 


PREPARING   THE   FOOT.  9 

takes  some  time  to  contract  a  horse's  foot  so  as 
to  lame  him,  and,  because  the  contraction  comes 
on  by  slow  degrees,  no  one  notices  it,  until  the 
horse  falls  lame,  and  then  every  one  wonders  what 
can  have  done  it;  but  very  few  hit  upon  the  right 
cause. 

The  frog  is  a  thick,  springy  cushion,  whose  chief 
use  is  to  protect  a  very  important  joint,  called  the 
navicular  joint,  and  it  is  covered  by  a  thin  layer 
of  horn,  to  keep  in  the  moisture;  and  every  time 
you  slice  off  any  of  the  frog,  you  lay  bare  a  part 
that  was  never  meant  to  be  exposed  to  the  air, 
and  it  dries,  and  cracks,  and  forms  rags,  which 
are  cut  off  at  every  fresh  shoeing,  until  the  whole 
frog  becomes  as  dry  and  hard  as  a  board;  and 
the  horse  gets  an  incurable  disease,  called  "na- 
vicular disease;"  therefore  I  say,  leave  the  frog 
alone;  it  will  never  grow  too  large,  for,  long 
before  that  would  happen,  the  outer  covering  will 
shell  off,  and  a  new  horny  covering  will  be  found 
underneath;  and  as  to  the  rags,  leave  them  alone 
also,  and  they  will  fall  off  of  themselves. 


10  TREATISE   ON   HORSE-SHOEING. 

A  weak,  flat  foot  will  bare  very  little  paring  or 
rasping;  the  crust  of  such  a  foot  is  sure  to  be 
thin  at  the  toe,  low  at  the  heels,  and  the  sole 
thin  and  weak;  therefore,  the  less  you  do  to  it 
the  better,  beyond  getting  rid  of  the  little  dead 
horn  there  may  be,  and  making  the  crust  level 
where  it  is  to  bear  upon  the  shoe;  this  must  be 
done  to  all  feet,  and,  as  the  inner  quarter,  w^here 
there  should  be  no  nails,  does  not  wear  away  as 
fast  as  the  outer  quarter,  where  the  nails  are 
driven,  you  should  always  place  a  rasp  upon  its 
edge  across  the  foot,  to  be  quite  sure  that  the 
two  sides  are  level.  I  have  known  shoes  lost  from 
the  inside  quarter  being  higher  than  the  outside,  and 
causing  the  foot  to  bear  unevenly  on  the  shoe. 

Before  you  pare  out  a  foot,  you  should  always 
think  of  the  state  of  the  roads;  and  if  they  are 
dry,  and  covered  with  loose  stones,  or  have  been 
lately  repaired,  you  should  take  very  httle  off  the 
sole  of  any  foot,  because,  if  you  thin  it,  the  stones 
will  bruise  it;  but  when  the  season  is  wet,  and 
the  stones  worn  in,  you  may  pare  out  the  sole  of 


PLATE  1 


>r"„'^:-^^3*>. 


B 


HeRLINE&CO.LlTH.PHIL* 


PREPARING   THE  FOOT.  11 

a  strong  foot  until  it  will  yield  to  hard  pressure 
from  your  thumbs;  but  you  must  never  pare  it 
thin  enough  to  yield  to  light  pressure. 

Plate  I.  shows  a  good-shaped  near  forefoot, 
pared  out  ready  for  shoeing.  I  have  placed  letters 
against  the  different  parts.  The  toe  reaches  from 
A  to  A,  the  letter  B  shows  the  middle  of  each 
quarter,  and  C  marks  the  heels.  You  will  observe 
that  the  crust  is  thicker  on  the  outer  quarter, 
where  the  nails  should  be,  than  it  is  on  the  inner 
quarter,  where  a  nail  must  never  be  driven ;  and 
you  will  also  see  that  the  hoof  is  not  a  circle, 
as  some  suppose,  but  is  straighter  on  the  inside 
than  it  is  on  the  outside.  D  marks  the  sole:  E 
shows  the  upper  part  of  the  bars,  pared  down 
nearly  level  with  the  sole.  F  shows  that  part 
of  the  bars  which  must  never  be  touched  by  a 
knife;  G  marks  the  frog,  and  is  placed  just  over 
the  situation  of  the  navicular  joint.  I  would  ad- 
vise you  to  examine  this  frog  well,  because  it  is 
what  every  horse's  frog  should  look  like, — plump, 
and    full,    and   even,    with   a    broad,    shallow   cleft, 


12  TREATISE  ON   HORSE-SHOEING. 

not  split  tlirougli  at  the  back  part;  and,  if  you 
shoe  your  horses  properly,  and  never  pare  the  frog, 
it  is  what  their  frogs  will  come  to  in  time. 


THE   SHOE. 

Before  I  talk  about  the  shoe,  I  must  settle 
names  for  the  upper  and  under  surfaces  ^  because 
I  fear  I  should  mislead  those  who  are  not  smiths, 
if  I  call  the  part  that  rests  upon  the  ground  "the 
upper  surface,"  as  smiths  do;  I  shall  therefore 
call  that  part  of  the  shoe  "the  ground  surface;" 
and  the  part  which  goes  next  the  foot  I  shall 
call  "the  foot  surface;"  and  then  there  can  be  no 
mistake  as  to  which  surface  I  mean. 

In  turning  your  store  shoes  "in  the  rough," 
you  should  leave  them  longer  at  the  heels  than 
smiths  generally  do:  we  shall  see  the  reason  for 
it  when  we  come  to  "fitting  the  shoe;"  and 
you  should  make  the  web  as  wide  at  the  heels 
as  it  is  at  the  toe,  and  of  the  same  thickness 
throughout   from   the   toe   back  to  the  heels.     The 


CHOOSING  A    SHOE.  1 


o 


^^  fuller"  slioulcl  be  carried  quite  round  the  shoe 
to  the  heels,  and  the  fuUering-iron  should  have 
both  sides  alike.  It  is  a  far  better  tool  than  the 
one-sided  iron  in  common  use,  which  is  generally 
so  narrow  and  sharp  that  it  not  only  makes  the 
groove  too  small  for  the  heads  of  the  nails  to 
sink  into,  but  it  often  splits  the  shoe.  A  narrow 
groove  may  look  neater  than  a  wide  one;  but  you 
will  find  a  wide  one  much  more  useful. 

CHOOSING  A  SHOE. 

The  first  thing  to  look  to  in  choosing  a  shoe 
is  the  kind  of  foot  you  have  to  deal  with.  If 
the  foot  is  a  strong,  good-shaped  one,  it  will  be 
an  easy  matter  to  find  a  shoe  for  it;  only  take 
care  that  the  web  is  not  too  narrow,  and  that 
the  shoe  is  not  too  light.  A  light  shoe  is  apt 
to  bend  before  it  is  half  worn  out;  and  the  pain 
caused  by  the  pressure  of  the  bent  nails  against 
the  tender  lining  of  the  hoof  throws  the  horse 
do^vn,  and    most  likely  breaks    his   knees.     If  the 

2 


14  TREATISE   ON   HORSE- SHOEING. 

foot  should  be  flat,  with  a  weak,  brittle  crust,  you 
must  still  choose  a  stout  shoe;  for  a  horse  with 
such  a  foot  could  not  go  at  all  upon  a  bent  shoe; 
and  the  shoe  must  have  a  wide  web,  because  the 
sole  is  sure  to  be  thin  and  will  need  plenty  of 
cover  to  protect  it. 

You  must  also  look  to  the  seating;  for,  if  the 
foot  is  weak  and  flat,  the  shoe  must  be  well  seated 
out,  to  prevent  its  pressing  upon  and  bruising  the 
sole;  but  if  the  foot  is  strong,  and  the  sole 
arched,  there  need  not  be  more  seating  than  will 
allow  the  point  of  a  picker  to  pass  freely  round 
between  the  sole  and  the  shoe;  otherwise  dirt  and 
small  stones  will  get  in,  and  bruise  the  sole  as 
much  as  the  shoe  w^ould  do  if  it  pressed  upon  it. 

CUTTING  OFF   THE  HEELS. 

Having  fixed  upon  a  shoe  to  your  mind,  begin 
by  cutting  off  the  heels:  and  you  will  find  a  half- 
round  chisel  a  better  tool  for  the  purpose  than  a 
straight  one,  because   you   should   never   cut   them 


PLATE  U 


#\  A 


HERLINE&CO.LlTH.PHILt 


CUTTING  OFF  THE  HEELS.  15 

off  square;  if  jou  do,  you  will  find  it  impossible 
to  fit  the  shoe  properly  to  the  heels,  and  at  the 
same  time  keep  the  web  as  wide  at  the  heels  as 
it  is  at  the  toe;  fdr  one  of  the  corners  of  the 
shoe  will  be  sticking  into  the  frog,  while  the 
other  stands  out  beyond  the  crust;  but  if  you  cut 
them  off  as  shown  in  Plate  II.,  Fig.  1,  you  will 
have  no  difficulty  in  bringing  ev^y  part  of  the 
shoe  into  its  proper  place  upon  the  foot.  Fig.  1  is 
a  shoe  turned  in  the  rough;  and  the  dotted  lines 
show  the  direction  in  which  the  heels  should  be 
cut  off.  The  side  next  the  frog  should  be  cut  off 
from  C  to  B,  and  the  outer  corner  from  A  to  B,  and 
then  the  shoe  will  look  like  Fig.  2,  which  with 
a  little  hammering  over  the  beak  of  the  anvil  will 
soon  come  like  Fig.  3:  you  will  see  that  the 
points,  marked  A  in  Fig.  2,  have  disappeared  in 
Fig.  3,  and  that  the  parts  between  A  and  B  on 
each  side  have  become  a  portion  of  the  outer  rim 
of  the  shoe;  whereby  the  outer  rim  is  length- 
ened, and  the  inner  rim  shortened;  and  there 
are  no  corners  left  to  interfere  with  your  following 


16  •  TREATISE   ON   HOESE-SHOEING. 

the  sweep  of  the  heels,  and  you  are  enabled  to 
keep  the  web  as  wide  at  the  heels  as  it  is  at 
the  toe.  I  have  introduced  Fig.  3  in  this  place, 
because  it  gave  me  the  opportunity  of  explaining 
the  reason  for  cutting  off  the  heels  as  I  have 
directed;  but  at  this  stage  of  the  business  it  is 
a  good  plan  always  to  leave  the  quarters  and 
heels  rather  straight,  and  wide  apart,  until  you 
have  fitted  the  toe;  because  it  is  less  trouble  to 
bring  them  in  than  it  is  to  open  them  out  after 
the  front  has  been  fitted. 

• 

THE   NAIL-HOLES. 

You  must  next  oj^en  the  nail-holes;  but  be 
sure  that  they  have  been  stamped  so  as  to  pass 
straight  through  the  shoe,  and  come  out  in  the 
flat  part  of  the  web  and  not  partly  in  the  flat 
and  partly  in  the  seating.  It  is  a  very  bad  plan 
to  make  them  slant  inwards,  as  most  smiths  do; 
for  in  driving  a  nail  they  have  first  to  pitch  the 
point   inwards,   then   turn    it    outwards,   driving    it 


THE   NAIL-HOLES.  17 

all  the  time  icitli  the  grain  of  the  crusty  and  at 
last  they  bring  it  out  high  up  in  the  thinnest 
part  of  the  hoof,  and  have  the  weakest  part  of 
the  nail  for  a  clench.  Now,  instead  of  all  this,  if 
3^ou  make  the  holes  straight  through  the  shoe,  you 
have  only  to  drive  the  nail  straight,  and  it  will 
go  through  the  shoe  across  the  grain  of  the  crust 
and  come  out  low  down  in  the  thickest  part  of 
the  hoof,  and  give  you  a  strong  clench  made  out 
of  the  shank  of  the  nail  instead  of  a  weak  one 
made  out  of  the  point.  The  advantage  of  straight 
holing  is  that  '^ou  are  sure  never  to  prick  the 
foot  in  driving  a  nail,  and  you  get  a  firmer  hold 
for  the  shoe.  Everybody  knows  that  a  short 
purchase  across  the  line  of  the  strain  is  stronger 
than  a  longer  one  in  the  direction  of  the  strain. 

The  soundness  of  the  horse's  foot,  as  far  as 
shoeing  is  concerned,  dej)ends  more  upon  the 
number  of  nails  and  where  they  are  placed  than 
upon  any  thing  else;  for  if  the  shoe  is  ever  so 
badly  formed,  and  the  nail-holes  are  rightly  placed, 
very  little   harm  will   happen   to   the   foot   beyond 

2* 


18  TREATISE   ON   HORSE- SHOEING. 

the  loss  of  a  slioe;  but  if  the  shoe  is  of  the 
best  possible  shape  and  fitted  to  the  foot  iii'  the 
most  perfect  manner^  unless  the  nail-holes  are 
placed  so  that  the  foot  can  expand,  it  must  in 
the  end  become  unsound. 

The  portion  of  hoof  that  expands  the  most  is 
the  inner  quarter  and  heel.  You  must  therefore 
leave  those  parts  free  from  nails;  and  the  way 
to  do  it  is  never  to  stamp  more  than  two  holes 
on  the  inside  of  the  shoe,  one  about  an  inch  and 
a  quarter  from  the  centre  of  the  toe,  and  the  other 
about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  bthind  it.  It  is 
quite  clear  that,  if  you  nail  both  sides  of  a  horse's 
hoof  to  an  iron  shoe,  the  hoof  will  be  held  fast, 
and  cannot  expand;  and,  when  the  horse's  weight 
forces  the  bones  of  the  foot  down  into  the  hoof, 
the  tender  lining  of  the  hoof  will  be  squeezed 
against  the  shanks  of  the  nails  and  cause  pain 
to  the  horse  at  every  step  he  takes.  The  whole 
number  of  nail-holes  should  never  exceed  five; 
three  on  the  outside,  and  two  on  the  inside.  I 
have  proved   over   and   over   again  that  five   nails 


FITTIXG   THE   FOOT.         -•   .  19 

•  ^^ 

will  liolcl  on  a  fore-slioe  at  any  kind  of  work,  in 
any  country  and  at  any  pace.  If  a  shoe  is  pro- 
perly fitted  to  the  foot  and  fastened  by  five  nails, 
nothing  but  the  smith's  pincers  can  get  it  off. 

Having  cut  off  the  heels  and  opened  the  nail- 
holes,  you  must  next  turn  up  a  clip  at  the  toe. 
Every  shoe  should  have  one  at  the  toe;  it  keeps  the 
shoe  steady,  and  prevents  its  being  forced  back. 
But  3^ou  never  should  put  one  at  the  side;  for  if  it 
is  put  on  the  inside  it  j)i'o vents  the  hoof  expand- 
ing; and  on  the  outside  it  is  worse  than  useless, 
for  the  nails  there  are  quite  sufficient  to  keep  the 
shoe  from  working  across  the  foot,  and  the  clip  will 
interfere  with  the  placing  of  one  of  the  nails  and 
destroy  more  of  the  crust  than  two  nails  would  do. 

FITTING   THE    SHOE. 

You   must  never   forget  that  "fitting   the   shoe" 

means    making    the    shoe  fit    the     foot,    and    not 

making  the  foot  fit  the  shoe,  as  I  have  often 
seen  done. 


20  TREATISE  ON  HORSE-SHOEING. 

It  is  a  bad  plan  to  try  to  fit  the  whole  of  the 
shoe  at  once;  it  is  much  better  and  saves  a 
great  deal  of  trouble  to  fit  the  toe  first,  then  the 
quarters,  and  lastly  the  heels:  but,  before  you 
begin  to  fit  the  toe,  take  a  look  at  the  old  shoe, 
and  see  how  much  of  the  toe  of  it  is  w^orn  away, 
because  just  so  much  of  the  new  shoe  should  be 
turned  up  away  from  the  ground  out  of  the  line 
of  wear. 

We  all  know  that  horses  go  better  and  stumble 
less  in  old  shoes  than  they  do  in  new  ones;  and 
the  reason  why  they  do  so  is  because  they  have 
worn  away  the  toe,  and  no  longer  jar  the  foot  by 
striking  the  toe  against  hard  substances  in  the 
road.  A  new  shoe  turned  up  at  the  toe  is  the 
same  thing  to  the  horse  as  an  old  one  worn 
down,  but  with  this  great  difference  to  his  comfort : — 
that  he  is  easy  upon  the  new  one  from  the  time 
it  is  first  put  on,  whereas  he  was  never  easy  upon 
the  old  one  until  he  had  worn  the  toe  away. 

When  a  horse  wears  his  shoe  hard  at  the  toe, 
it  is   the  custom  of  most  smiths   to  weld  a   lump 


lA/^i  ■ 


HERLINE&CO.LITH.PHIL^ 


s 


1^ 


FITTIIsG  THE   SHOE.  21 

of  steel  on  to  it,  to  make  him  longer  in  wearing  it 
away;  but  this  only  increases  the  jar  to  his  foot, 
w^hile  turning  up  the  toe  makes  the  shoe  last  quite 
as  long,  and  saves  the  horse  from  a  great  deal  of 
unnecessary  suffering.  A  strong  foot  will  bear 
the  toe  to  be  turned  u|)  a  good  deal;  but  a  flat 
foot  is  always  weak  at  the  toe,  and  will  not  bear 
much.  Still,  the  shoe  should  be  turned  up  a  little, 
so  as  to  clear  the  ground;  the  horse  will  travel 
safer  and  better  for  it. 

You  can  make  a  very  handy  tool  for  turning 
up  the  toe  of  a  shoe  by  shutting  a  piece  of  iron, 
five  inches  long  and  one  inch  broad,  crosswise  on 
to  each  blade  of  a  pair  of  smith's  tongs;  with 
this  tool  you  will  be  able  to  grasp  both  limbs  of 
the  shoe  at  once,  and  not  only  turn  up  the  toe 
over  the  end  of  the  anvil,  but  restore  the  seating 
at  the  toe  without  bending  the  shoe  or  putting 
it  out  of  shape,  which  you  could  not  do  by  hold- 
ing one  limb  at  a  time  in  common  tongs,  without 
a  great  deal  of  trouble.  Plate  III.  shows  you  this 
tool    in    use   with    the   ground-surface   of  the   shoe 


22  TREATISE   OX   HORSE-SIIOEING. 

uppermost  for  turning  up  the  toe;  and  you  liave 
only  to  reverse  it,  keeping  the  same  grasp  of  the 
shoe,  and  the  foot-surface  will  come  uppermost, 
ready  to  have  the  seating  made  good. 

I  will  now  suppose  that  you  have  shortened  the 
toe  of  the  hoof,  rasped  away  the  crust  to  receive 
the  turned-up  shoe,  cut  a  notch  for  the  clip,  and 
turned  up  the  toe  of  the  shoe:  you  had  better 
next  spring  the  heels  to  prevent  their  burning 
the  back  part  of  the  crust  while  you  are  fitting 
the  shoe  to  the  fore  part;  but  you  must  bring 
them  down  again  before  you  fit  the  quarters  and 
heels,  and  never  leave  them  sprung  when  the  shoe 
is  nailed  on. 

You  must  now  put  the  toe  of  the  shoe  in  the 
fire,  and  make  it  hot  enough  to  mark  the  uneven 
portions  of  horn,  which  should  be  rasped  away 
until  an  even  bed  is  left  for  the  shoe  to  rest 
upon.  You  need  not  fear  to  burn  the  toe  of  a 
strong  foot;  it  can  do  no  harm;  but  a  weak  foot 
with  a  thin  crust  of  course  will  not  bear  much 
burning.     Still,  the  shoe  should  be  made  hot  enough 


FITTING   THE   SHOE.  23 

to  scorcli  tlie  horn  and  show  where  it  fails  to  fit 
close. 

When  the  toe  is  once  properly  fitted,  there  will 
be  very  little  trouble  in  fitting  the  quarters  and 
heels.  You  have  only  to  bring  them  in  over  the 
beak  of  the  anvil  until  the  edge  of  the  shoe  ranges 
with  the  edge  of  the  hoof  back  to  the  farthest 
point  of  the  heel  on  each  side,  and  continue  the 
same  sweep  until  it  nearly  touches  the  frog.  There 
must  be  none  of  the  shoe  left  sticking  out  beyond 
the  hoof,  either  behind  or  at  the  sides  of  the  heels. 

I  know  that  a  great  many  smiths  are  very  fond 
of  what  are  called  "open-heeled  shoes,"  which 
means  shoes  with  straight  heels,  wide  apart,  and 
projecting  beyond  the  hoof,  both  behind  and  at  the 
sides;  and  the  only  reason  I  have  ever  heard  in 
favor  of  such  shoes  is  a  very  bad  one, — viz. :  that 
the  horse  requires  more  support  at  the  heels  than 
he  gets  from  the  hoof.  But  you  may  depend  upon 
it  that  nature  has  made  no  mistake  about  it;  and 
if  the  horse  really  wanted  more  support  than  he 
gets  from  the  heels  of  the  hoof,  he  would  have  had 


24  TEEATISE   ON   HORSE-SHOEING. 

it.  But  I  think  I  shall  prove  to  you  that  this  kind 
of  shoGj  instead  of  being  a  benefit  to  the  horse^  is  a 
positive  evil  to  him:  it  interferes  with  his  action^ 
and  exposes  his  sole  and  frog  to  serious  injury 
from  stones  in  the  road,  and  the  projecting  por- 
tions of  the  shoe  become  ledges  for  stiff  ground  to 
cling  to  and  pull  the  shoe  off.  More  shoes  are 
lost  through  these  mischievous  projections  at  the 
heels  than  from  all  other  causes  put  together. 

Let  us  see  how  it  is  that  these  projecting  heels 
interfere  with  the  horse's  action.  It  is  not  neces- 
sary for  this  purpose  to  trouble  you  with  the 
anatomy  of  the  foot,  but  merely  to  state  that  all 
its  parts  are  joined  to  each  other  in  such  a  man- 
ner as  to  form  one  great  spring,  and  that  the  foot 
is  joined  to  the  leg  by  the  pastern  and  coronet 
bones  in  a  direction  slanting  forward,  which  brings 
the  foot  a  little  in  advance  of  the  leg,  and  places 
the  heels  in  front  of  a  line  dropped  from  the  centre 
of  the  fetlock  joint  to  the  ground. 

Plate  VIII.,  Fig.  3. — 1.  The  shank  or  canon  bone. 
2.  The  pastern  bone.     3.  The  coronet  bone.    4.  The 


PLATEAU 


FiS.lJ 


Fi2.2 


Fig.-t 


HERLINE  &  CO.LITH  .PHIL* 


FITTING   THE   SHOE.  25 

sessamoid  bone.  A.  The  point  where  the  weight  of 
the  horse  would  fall  upon  the  upper  end  of  the  pas- 
tern bone.  B.  The  point  where  a  hne  dropped  from 
A  would  meet  the  ground.     C.  The  heel  of  the  hoof. 

Now,  it  is  clear  that  the  weidit  of  the  horse  will 
fall  upon  the  upper  end  of  this  slanting  pastern 
bone  at  every  step;  and  the  bone,  having  a  joint 
at  each  end  of  it,  will  sink  to  the  weight  thus 
thrown  upon  it  and  break  the  force  of  the  shock 
both  to  the  leg  and  foot;  but  if  the  heels  of  the 
shoe  are  longer  than  the  heels  of  the  hoof,  the  pro- 
jecting pieces  of  iron  will  meet  the  ground  farther 
back  than  the  natural  heels  would  have  done,  and 
will  check  the  sinking  of  the  pastern  bone,  just  as 
an  upright  pastern  does,  by  bringing  the  heels  too 
much  under  the  centre  of  the  weight,  which  causes 
the  horse  to  step  short  and  go  stumpy. 

If  you  wish  to  avoid  these  evils  and  keep  the 
horse's  shoes  on  his  feet,  you  must  bring  in  the  heels, 
and  let  the  shoe  strictly  follow  the  form  of  the  foot, 
whatever  that  form  may  be. 

The  part  of  the  foot  that  needs  protection  from 


26  TREATISE   ON   HORSE-SHOEING. 

injury,  more  than  any  otlier,  is  tlie  "navicular  joint," 
wliicli  rests  upon  tlie  frog  about  an  inch  or  an  inch 
and  a  quarter  behind  its  point;  and  the  only  way 
to  protect  it  is  to  keep  the  web  of  the  shoe  as  wide 
at  the  heels  as  it  is  at  the  toe,  and  to  bring  in  the 
heels  until  they  nearly  touch  the  frog.  By  so  doing 
you  lessen  the  opening  of  the  shoe,  and  the  web  of 
one  side  or  the  other  will  strike  upon  the  stones 
in  the  road  and  save  the  frog  frora  coming  with  full 
force  upon  them.  But  open-heeled  shoes  leave  the 
frog  entirely  exposed  to  very  large  stones,  and  cause 
many  a  bruise  to  the  navicular  joint  which  lays  the 
foundation  of  future  incurable  lameness. 

I  have  often  seen  shoes  so  wide  at  the  heels  that 
I  have  placed  my  clenched  hand  within  the  opening 
of  the  shoe  without  touching  either  side  of  it;  and 
where  my  fist  could  go  a  stone  as   large  could  go. 

Another  great  advantage  of  bringing  in  the  heels 
and  fitting  the  shoe  close,  is  the  certainty  that  the 
horse  will  not  cast  his  shoe:  you  leave  nothing  for 
stiff  ground  to  lay  hold  of,  and,  if  you  slightly 
bevel  the  inside-quarter  and  heel  of  the  shoe  from 


FITTIXG   THE    SHOE.  27 

the  foot  downwards^,  no  ground  in  the  world  can 
pull  it  off,  for  the  foot,  expanding  to  the  weight 
of  the  horse,  enlarges  the  hole  made  by  the  shoe 
and  leaves  more  space  for  the  shoe  to  come  out  of 
than  it  made  for  itself  to  go  in  at;  but  if  the 
shoe  projects  bej'ond  the  hoof  at  any  part,  and  more 
^particularly  at  the  heels,  the  foot  cannot  fill  the 
hole  made  by  the  shoe,  and  stiff  clay  will  cling 
round  the  projection  and  pull  the  shoe  off. 

Having  so  far  finished  the  shoe,  place  it  on  the 
face  of  the  anvil  with  the  toe  hanging  over  the 
side,  and  see  that  the  foot-surface  of  the  quarters 
and  heels  are  quite  level;  then  make  it  hot  enough 
to  scorch  the  hoof  all  round  and  form  a  bed  for 
itself;  without  this  it  would  be  next  to  impossible 
to  insure  close  fitting,  for,  after  you  have  made 
the  foot  as  level  as  you  can  with  the  rasp  and 
the  shoe  as  level  as  you  can  on  the  anvil,  the 
chances  are  very  much  against  their  fitting  like  two 
planed  boards,  as  they  ought  to  do;  and  the  quantity 
of  horn  to  be  thus  removed  is  so  small  as  not  to 
be  worth  thinking  about.      It  is  a  mistake  to  sup- 


28  TREATISE  ON   HORSE-SHOEING. 

pose  tliat  a  hot  shoe  injures  the  hoof:  it  does 
nothing  of  the  kind;  and  you  cannot  possibly  fit 
a  shoe  properly  without  making  it  hot.  I  would 
not  have  you  burn  a  shoe  into  its  place  on  the 
foot  before  you  had  taken  care  to  make  both  the 
foot  and  the  shoe  as  level  as  you  could;  but  when 
you  have  done  that,  the  small  quantity  of  burning 
that  is  necessary  to  make  them  come  close  together 
can  do  no  harm.  I  have  said  before  that  a  weak, 
thin  crust  will  not  bear  as  much  heat  as  a  strong 
one,  and  that  the  shoe  should  be  applied  less  hot 
to  it;  nevertheless,  it  must  be  scorched,  that  you 
may  be  sure  the  shoe  fits  properly. 

When  you  have  cooled  the  shoe,  you  should 
"back-hole"  it, — that  is,  make  a  free  opening  on 
the  foot-surface  for  the  nails  to  pass  through;  but 
mind  that  in  doing  so  you  do  not  make  the  holes 
incline  inwards,  by  breaking  down  the  inner  edge 
of  the  holes  more  than  the  outer  edge. 

Before  you  "file  up"  the  shoe,  hold  it  firmly  in 
its  place  on  the  foot  with  both  hands,  and  examine 
carefully  whether    any  light    a23pears    between    the 


B  1 


PLATE  IV. 


Fi;^.! 


B  ti 


B 


Bl 


HERLINE&CO.LITH.PHIL* 


FILING  UP   THE    SHOE,  29 

foot  and  tlie  shoe,  and,  if  you  should  perceive  any, 
alter  the  shoe  at  once;  for  the  crust  must  bear 
upon  the  shoe  all  round  before  you  can  say  that 
the  shoe  fits  the  foot  as  it  ourfit  to  do. 


FILING  UP  THE  SHOE. 

Much  time  is  often  wasted  in  polishing  the  shoe 
with  the  file  before  it  is  nailed  on;  but  all  that 
is  really  needed  is  to  get  rid  of  the  burs  about 
the  nail-holes,  remove  the  sharp  edges  of  the  shoe, 
and  round  off  the  heels;  taking  care  to  apply  the 
file  hard  to  that  part  of  both  heels  which  comes 
next  to  the  frog,  so  as  to  slant  it  from  the  ground 
upward  and  away  from  the  frog;  but  you  must 
not  narrow  the  ground-suYfixce  of  the  web  at  the 
heels  in  doing  so.  Plate  4  represents  both  surfaces 
of  a  near  fore-shoe;  Fig.  1  shows  the  foot-surface, 
and  Fig.  2  the  ground-surflice. 

In  Fig.  1,  A  is  the  clip  at  the  toe,  B  1  the  outer 
quarter,  B  2  the  inner  quarter,  C  1  the  outer  heel, 
C  2  the  inner  heel,  D  the  seating,  E  the  flat  sur- 

3* 


30  TREATISE   ON  HORSE-SHOEING. 

face  for  the  crust  to  bear  upon,  F  tlie  heels  bevelled 
off  away  from  the  frog. 

In  Fig.  2,  A  is  the  toe,  turned  up  out  of  the 
line  of  wearj  B  1  the  outer  and  B  2  the  inner 
quarter,  C  1  the  outer  and  C  2  the  inner  heel, 
D  the  ground-surface  of  the  web,  as  wdde  at  the 
heels  as  it  is  at  the  toe,  E  tlie  fullering,  carried 
all  round  the  shoe. 

NAILS. 

I  must  say  a  few  words  about  the  nails  before  we 
come  to  nailing  on  the  shoe;  because  the  nails  in 
common  use  are  as  badly  formed  as  they  well 
can  be.  Their  short  wedge-shaped  heads,  wide  at  the 
top  and  narrow  at  the  bottom,  with  shanks  spring- 
ing suddenly  from  the  head  without  any  shoulder 
and  ending  in  a  long,  narrow  point,  are  most 
unsafe  to  trust  a  shoe  to.  The  head  of  such  a 
nail  can  never  perfectly  fill  the  hole  in  the  shoe, 
for  the  wide  top  gets  tied  either  in  the  fullering, 
or   the   upper   part   of  the   hole,   before   the   lower 


NAILS.  31 

part  lias  reached  tlie  bottom,  and  when  the  head 
is  about  half  worn  away  the  lower  part  is  left  loose 
in  the  hole  and  the  shoe  comes  off.  Now  the 
nails  I  advise  you  to  use — and  you  had  better  always 
make  them  for  yourself — should  have  heads  which 
are  straight-sided  at  the  upper  part  and  gradually 
die  away  into  the  shank  at  the  lower  part,  so  as 
to  form  a  shoulder  which  will  block  the  opening 
made  in  ^^back-holing"  the  shoe,  and  keep  the  shoe 
firmly  in  its  place  until  it  is  c|uite  worn  out. 

If  you  compare  the  two  nails  I  have  drawn,  you 
will  at  once  see  which  promises  the  firmer  hold. 

Your  nails  should  be  made  of  the  very  best  nail- 
rods  you  can  get,  and  they  should  not  be  cooled  too 
c[uickly,  but  be  left  spread  about  to  cool  by  degrees; 
the  longer  in  reason  they  are  cooling,  the  tougher 
they  will  become.  They  should  not,  however,  be 
allowed  to  lie  in  a  heap  to  cool;  the  mass  keeps  in 
the  heat  too  Ions:,  and  makes  them  almost  as  brittle 
as  if  they  had  been  cooled  too  suddenly. 


32  TREATISE  ON   HORSE-SHOEING. 

NAILING  ON  THE  SHOE. 

If  the  nails  are  of  a  proper  sliape^  the  holes 
straight  through  the  shoe,  and  the  shoe  fits  the 
foot,  it  requires  very  little  skill  to  nail  it  on; 
only  put  the  point  of  the  nail  in  the  middle  of 
the  hole,  keep  the  nail  upright  and  drive  it  straight: 
it  must  come  out  in  the  right  place,  low  down  in 
the  crust,  without  the  possibility  of  wounding  the 
sensitive  parts  of  the  foot.  The  shank  of  the  nail 
will  pass  straight  through  the  substance  of  the 
crust  and  gain  a  good  firm  hold  of  it,  leaving 
you  the  strongest  part  from  which  to  form  a 
clench.  The  clenches  should  be  short  and  broad, 
and  not  thinned  by  rasping  away  any  of  their  sub- 
stance, but  hammered  at  once  into  a  notch  made 
in  the  hoof  under  each,  and  the  rasp  should  never 
be  allowed  to  go  over  them  after  they  have  been 
hammered  down;  for  the  sharp  steel  rasp  is  very 
apt  to  cut  through  the  soft  iron  clench  just  where 
it  turns  down,  and  leave  the  appearance  of  a  clench, 
when  in  truth,  it  has   been  cut  off  at  the   bend 


PLATE  V. 


Fis.l. 


Fi^.2 


HERLINE&CO.LITH.PHIL» 


NAILIXG  OX  THE  SHOE.  33 

and  the  loose  end  only  remains  buried  in  the 
notch  in  the  hoof.  You  will  do  good  by  rasping 
heloio  the  clenches,  because  you  will  remove  the 
horn  that  has  been  destroyed  by  the  former  nails; 
but  on  no  account  ever  use  the  rasp  ahove  the 
clenches.  If  you  do,  you  will  tear  off  the  thin  outer 
covering  of  the  hoof,  which  is  placed  there  for  the 
purpose  of  retaining  the  natural  moisture  and 
keeping  the  horn  tough ;  and  if  you  rasp  it  away 
you  will  expose  the  horn  to  the  air,  and  it  will 
soon  become  dry  and  brittle  and  make  the  hoof 
difficult  to  shoe.  This  thin  covering  of  the  hoof 
is  like  the  shining  covering  of  a  man's  finger-nail; 
and  most  people  know  from  experience  how  dry 
and  brittle  and  easily  broken  a  finger-nail  becomes 
when  by  any  accident  it  loses  that  covering. 

Plate  y.  represents  the  ground-surface  of  a  near 
fore-foot  with  the  shoe  nailed  on  by  five  nails. 
Fig.  1  shows  the  shoe  in  its  place  on  the  foot, 
and  Fig.  2  represents  the  same  shoe  made  trans- 
parent, so  that  the  j)^i'ts  of  the  foot  that  are 
covered  by  it  are   seen  through   it.     A  shows   the 


34  TREATISE   ON   HORSE-SHOEING. 

crusty  B  the  bars,  and  C  the  heels  of  the  hoof 
supported  by  the  shoe.  I  have  invariably  found 
that  corns  disappear  altogether  from  a  horse's  foot 
after  it  has  been  shod  two  or  three  times  in  this 
manner,  and  that  they  never  return  while  the 
same  method  of  shoeing  is  continued. 

SHOEING  WITH  LEATHER. 

Many  tender-footed  horses  travel  best  with  a 
covering  over  the  sole,  and  leather  is  commonly 
used  for  the  purpose;  but  I  think  gutta  percha  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  or  waterproof  felt  of  the 
same  thickness,  answer  better,  because  they  both 
resist  wet  and  do  not  alter  their  shape  as  leather 
does.  When  leather  is  wetted  it  becomes  soft  and 
heavy  and  yielding;  but  in  drying  again  it  con- 
tracts and  hardens,  causing  a  frequent  change  of 
23ressure  on  the  frog,  which  does  not  happen  with 
either  of  the  other  two  substances.  I  have  used  felt 
for  the  last  three  or  four  years,  and  prefer  it  very 
much.     But  whichever  covering  you  use,  it  must  be 


SHOEIXG   TTITH    LEATHER.  35 

put  on  in  the  same  way;  so  I  will  at  once  tell  you 
how  to  do  it.  You  must  fit  the  shoe  to  the  foot 
with  as  much  care  as  if  nothing  were  to  be  put 
under  it;  and  when  it  is  "filed  up/'  and  ready  to 
be  put  on,  lay  it  with  the  foot-surface  downward 
on  the  covering,  whatever  it  may  be,  and  mark  the 
form  of  the  shoe  upon  it  with  the  end  of  the  draw- 
ing-knife; then  cut  the  piece  out,  put  it  in  its 
place  upon  the  shoe,  and  fix  them  both  in  the  vice, 
which  will  hold  them  close  together,  while  you 
carefully  cut  the  edge  of  the  covering  until  it 
agrees  with  the  edge  of  the  shoe;  then  turn  them 
in  the'  vice  together,  so  as  to  bring  the  heels  of  the 
shoe  uppermost,  and  cut  out  a  piece  slightly  curved 
downward  from  heel  to  heel,  that  nothing  may  be 
left  projecting  for  the  ground  to  lay  hold  of.  The 
next  thing  to  do  is  to  smear  the  whole  of  the 
under-surface  of  the  foot  well  with  Barbadoes  tar 
mixed  with  a  little  grease;  but  be  sure  that  you 
never  use  gas-tar  instead  of  the  other;  for  it  dries 
up  the  horn  and  makes  it  as  hard  as  flint,  wliile 
Barbadoes  tar  keeps  it  moist  and  tough.     Then  you 


36  TREATISE   ON   HORSE-SHOEING. 

must  fill  the  hollow  between  the  frog  and  the  crust 
on  both  sides  with  oakum  (which  is  better  for  the 
purpose  than  tow)  dipped  in  the  tar,  pressing  it 
well  into  the  hollow  until  the  mass  rises  above  the 
level  of  the  frog  on  each  side;  but  never  put  any 
oakum  upon  the  frog  itself,  excepting  a  piece  in  the 
cleft  to  prevent  the  dirt  and  grit  working  in;  very 
little  is  ever  wanted  on  the  sole  in  front  of  the  frog. 
The  use  of  the  oakum  is  to  protect  the  foot,  but 
more  especially  the  navicular  joint,  which  lies  above 
and  across  the  frog,  from  being  jarred  by  stones  on 
a  hard  road;  and  the  best  way  of  doing  this  is  to 
fill  the  space  on  each  side  of  the  frog  with  oakum 
in  such  a  manner  that  it  shall  share  the  pressure 
with  the  frog  and  prevent  the  full  force  of  the 
shock  from  falling  on  the  navicular  joint. 

The  usual  mode  of  stopj)ing  a  foot  is  to  place  a 
thick  wad  of  tow  over  the  whole  surface  of  sole 
and  frog  together,  making  bad  worse,  by  adding 
to  the  projection  of  the  frog  and  causing  it  to 
meet  the  ground  sooner  and  receive  the  full  force 
of  the  jar. 


PLATE  Yl. 


/":: 


'  i-V.^tervf-^O'^'*^*'* '* 


HERHNT  dCO.UT"   phha 


THE   HIND-SHOE.  37 

You  must  now  nail  on  the  shoe  with  five  nails, 
exactly  as  you  would  do  if  there  was  nothing 
under  it;  and  if  you  have  attended  to  the  fit- 
ting there  will  be  no  fear  of  the  shoe  shifting 
or  coming  off. 

Plate  YL,  Fig.  1,  shows  a  foot  stopped,  ready  for 
shoeing.  The  ends  of  the  oakum  placed  in  the 
cleft  of  the  frog  are  collected  together  and  carried 
across  the  body  of  the  frog,  to  be  mixed  with  the 
oakum  on  one  side,  which  keeps  it  in  its  place  in 
the  cleft  and  j)revents  it  from  working  out  behind. 

Fig.  2  shows  a  foot  properly  shod  with  leather, 
and  also  the  shape  to  which  the  leather  should  be 
cut  between  the  heels  of  the  shoe. 

THE  HIND-SHOE. 

The  hind-shoe,  like  the  fore-shoe,  should  be 
brought  in  at  the  heels  and  be  made  to  follow  the 
exact  shape  of  the  hoof;  but,  as  the  weight  of  the 
horse  falls  differently  upon  the  hind-feet  to  what 
it  does  upon   the  fore-feet,  and  as   the    rider   often 


.  • 


38  TKEATISE   ON   HORSE-SHOEING. 

obliges  the  horse  to  stop  suddenly  and  without 
warning  when  he  is  least  prepared  to  do  so,  it 
becomes  necessary  to  guard  against  strains  of  the 
hock  and  back-sinews,  by  raising  the  heels  of  the 
shoe ;  but  this  should  be  done  in  such  a  manner  as 
will  give  both  heels  an  even  bearing  upon  the 
ground.  Calkins  may  be,  and,  I  believe,  are,  useful 
to  heavy  draught-horses,  but  they  are  objectionable 
for  fast  w^ork ;  and  turning  down  the  out  side-heel 
alone  should  never  be  done;  it  throws  the  weight 
upon  the  inner  quarter,  which  is  the  least  able  to 
bear  it,  and  strains  the  fetlock  joint.  The  plan  I 
have  adopted  for  many  years  is  to  have  the  last 
inch  and  a  half  toward  the  heel  forged  thicker  than 
any  other  part  of  the  shoe;  the  heels  are  then 
made  red-hot,  and  the  shoe  is  put  in  the  vice 
with  the  hot  heels  projecting,  which  are  beaten 
down  with  a  hammer  until  they  are  about  an  inch 
long,  and  then  the  sides  are  made  even  and  the 
foot  and  ground-surfaces  level  on  the  anvil.  I 
have  found  horses  travel  pleasanter  and  receive 
less  damage  to  their  hocks,  back-sinews,  and  fetlock 


THE    HIND-SHOE.  39 

jointSj  with  these  heels  to  their  hind-shoes^  than 
they  have  with  any  others  that  I  have  tried. 

The  toe  of  the  hind-shoe  is  exposed  to  great 
wear,  and  should  be  made  stout  and  thick,  and 
rather  pointed,  with  a  small  clip  in  the  middle,  to 
prevent  the  shoe  from  being  driven  backward;  and 
the  back-edge  of  the  web  should  be  rounded  off, 
to  guard  against  "  overreach."  The  toe  should  rest 
fairly  on  the  ground,  to  enable  the  horse  to  get 
a  good  purchase  for  throwing  his  weight  forward. 
It  is  a  bad  plan  to  make  the  toe  broad  and  to  place 
clips  at  the  side  of  it ;  it  is  almost  sure  to  cause  the 
very  evil  it  was  intended  to  prevent,  by  making  the 
horse  "forge,"  as  it  is  called. 

Many  persons  think  that  "forging"  is  caused 
by  the  front  of  the  toe  of  the  hind-shoe  striking 
against  the  heel  of  the  fore-shoe ;  but  that  is  a 
mistake.  The  sound  is  produced  in  this  way :  when 
the  horse  raises  his  fore-foot  from  the  ground  and 
does  not  instantly  throw  it  forward,  but  dwells  in 
the  action,  the  hind-foot,  following  quickly,  is 
forced    into    the    opening    of   the    fore-shoe    before 


40  TEEATISE   ON   HORSE-SHOEING. 

the  fore-foot  gets  out  of  tlie  way;  and  the  corners 
of  the  broad  toe^  made  still  broader  by  the  clips  at 
the  sides^  are  struck  against  the  inner  rim  of  the  web 
of  the  fore-shoe  on  each  side  just  behind  the  quarters, 
and  cause  the  unpleasant  clicking  sound.  The 
only  way  to  avoid  this  disagreeable  noise  is  to 
make  the  hind-shoe  narrow  at  the  toe  and  rather 
pointed,  with  the  clip  in  the  centre;  and  then  the 
point  of  the  toe,  clip  and  all,  will  enter  the  opening 
of  the  fore-shoe  held  up  to  receive  it,  and  be 
stopped  by  the  sole  or  frog  before  any  part  of 
the  two  shoes  can  come  together,  and  the  noise 
will  cease. 

I  have  said  that  you  should  round  off  the  back- 
edge  of  the  web  at  the  toe  to  prevent  an  "over- 
reach." It  is  commonly  supposed  that  this  also  is 
done  by  the  front  of  the  toe ;  whereas,  it  is  always 
done  by  the  hack-edge^  which  in  a  well-worn  shoe 
you  will  find  is  as  sharp  as  a  knife.  Now,  if  the 
horse  in  galloping  does  not  lift  his  fore-foot  from 
the  ground  and  throw  it  forward  in  time  to  make 
way  for  the  hind-foot,  the  hind-foot  overreaches  it, 


PLATE  \l[ 


Fial 


HERLINE&CO.UTH.PHIL* 


THE   HIND-SHOE.  41 

and  cuts  a  piece  out  of  the  soft  parts  above  the 
heel  and  produces  a  very  troublesome  wound. 

The  hmd-foot  expands  less  than  the  fore-foot; 
still,  you  should  place  the  nail-holes  so  as  not  to 
confine  the  foot.  I  have  found  four  nails  on  the 
outside  and  three  on  the  inside  sufficient  to  hold 
any  hind-shoe  firmly  to  the  foot.  The  holes  on 
the  inside  should  be  stamped  closer  together  than 
those  on  the  outside,  and  tliey  should  be  placed 
forward  toward  the  toe,  so  as  to  leave  the  inside 
quarter  and  heel  free  to  expand.  A  small  foot 
may  be  shod  with  three  nails  on  each  side ;  but 
no  foot  requires  more  than  seven  altogether. 

Plate  VII.  represents  a  near  hind-shoe.  Fig.  1 
shows  a  level  surface  for  the  foot  to  rest  upon, 
the  raised  heels  and  the  thickened  toe,  with  a  small 
clip  in  the  centre. 

Fig.  2  shows  the  toe  rather  pointed,  the  back  edge 
rounded,  and  the  nail-holes  properly  placed. 

4* 


42  TEEATISE  ON   HORSE-SHOEIN-G. 

CUTTING. 

Horses  strike  their  feet  against  the  opposite  leg 
in  such  a  variety  of  ways,  both  before  and  behind, 
that  it  is  impossible  to  form  a  shoe  that  would 
suit  every  case  of  "cutting."  I  therefore  advise 
you,  whether  the  horse  cuts  before  or  behind,  to 
fasten  something  like  a  boot  covered  thickly  with 
wetted  pipeclay  over  the  place  where  he  strikes 
the  leg,  and  then  trot  him  along  the  road;  he  will 
soon  pick  off  some  of  the  pipeclay  with  the  opposite 
foot,  and  show  you  the  exact  part  of  the  shoe  he 
strikes  with,  which  you  can  easily  alter  in  the  new 
shoe;  and  you  will  often  be  surprised  to  see  how 
small  a  matter  causes  the  mischief. 

EEMOYING. 

The  time  at  which  a  horse's  shoes  should  be  re- 
moved must  depend  very  much  upon  circumstances. 
If  a  horse  wears  his  shoes  out  in  less  than  a 
month  they  had  better  not  be  removed ;  and  horses 


REMOVIXG.  43 

with  thin,  weak  horiij  which  grows  slowly,  are 
likewise  better  left  alone  between  each  shoeing, 
unless  their  shoes  last  six  or  seven  weeks,  in  which 
case  tliej^  should  be  removed  once  within  the  time : 
but  horses  with  strong  feet  and  plenty  of  horn, 
that  wear  their  shoes  a  full  month,  should  have 
them  removed  at  the  end  of  the  first  fortnidit ; 
and  when  horses  are  doing  so  little  work  or  wear 
their  shoes  so  lightly  that  they  last  two  months, 
they  should  be  removed  every  fortnight,  and  at  the 
second  removal  the  shoes  should  be  put  in  the  fire 
and  refitted,  or  the  feet  will  outgrow  the  shoes;  as 
the  horn  crrows  much  quicker  when  a  horse  is  idle 
than  it  does  when  he  is  in  full  work. 

Having  now  gone  carefully  through  all  the  cir- 
cumstances necessary  to  good  shoeing,  and  stated 
the  reasons  why  certain  things  should  alicays  be 
done,  and  certain  other  things  never  done,  I  will 
repeat  shortly  the  few  things  which  are  to  he  done 
in  the  order  in  which  they  occur;  and  you  will 
find  that  they  are  really  very  few  when  separated 
from  the  reasons  and  explanations. 


44  TREATISE  ON   HORSE-SHOEING. 

Kaise  tlie  clenches  with  the  buffer. 

Have  only  one  foot  bare  at  a  time. 

Pare  out  the  foot;  but  leave  the  frog  alone. 

Cut  off  the  heels  of  the  shoe  as  I  have  directed. 

Open  the  nail-holes  straight  through  the  shoe. 

Form  a  clip  at  the  toe,  and  turn  up  the  toe  of 
the  shoe. 

Fit  the  toe^  then  the  quarters,  and  lastly  the 
heels. 

Heat  the  shoe,  and  apply  it  to  the  foot  to  see  that 
it  fits  properly. 

« 

Cool  the  shoe,  "back-hole"  it,  and  file  it  up. 

Nail  it  on  with  five  nails,  coming  out  low  in  the 
crust. 

Hammer  down  the  clenches  without  rasping  them, 
and  only  rasp  the  hoof  helow  them. 


GENERAL   OBSERVATIONS. 

I  have  said  that  ^yq  nails  are  sufficient  to  hold 
on  a  fore-shoe  at  any  kind  of  work,  in  any  coun- 


GENERAL   OBSERVATIONS.  45 

try  and  at  any  pace;  and  I  again  advise  you  to 
employ  that  number,  placing  three  on  the  outside 
of  the  shoe  and  two  on  the  inside,  because  I  know 
from  experience  that  with  the  very  commonest  care 
on  the  part  of  the  smith  they  will  hold  a  shoe 
through  any  difficulty  of  ground  or  pace.  But  I  am 
prepared  to  prove  that  they  are  more  than  suf- 
ficient for  the  purpose,  and  to  show  that  many 
smiths  can  and  do  keep  on  a  fore-shoe  by  tliree 
nails  only — tico  placed  on  the  outside  and  one  on 
the  inside. 

It  is  very  nearly  seven  years  since  I  have  had 
more  than  three  nails  in  the  fore-shoe  of  any  one 
of  my  six  horses,  and  they  are  all  shod  with  thick 
felt  and  stopping;  some  of  them  do  not  require 
the  felt,  but,  having  begun  it  as  an  experiment 
some  years  ago,  and  finding  no  inconvenience  from 
it,  I  have  gone  on  with  it.  In  a  former  work  I 
published  several  cases  of  horses  having  done  a 
variety  of  work  with  only  three  nails  in  each  fore- 
shoe  ;  and  I  may  now  add  another,  which  happened 
to  a  horse  of  my  own  last  year,  and  which  ought 


46  TREATISE   OX   HORSE- SHOEING. 

to  set  the  question  at  rest,  supposing  any  doubt 
still  to  exist  as  to  the  capability  of  three  nails  to 
hold  a  shoe.  The  horse  I  allude  to  is  twenty- 
eight  years  old;  he  is  a  high  stepper,  and  im- 
petuous in  company,  and  has  large  flat  feet,  which 
grow  horn  very  sparingly,  so  that  it  is  quite 
necessary  to  protect  his  feet  by  a  stout  shoe  with 
felt  and  stopping  under  it.  He  happens  to  be  a 
particularly  nice  lady's  horse  for  one  who  has 
plenty  of  nerve  and  can  ride  well;  and  I  lent 
him  to  join  in  a  large  riding  party  of  ladies  and 
gentlemen,  on  a  visit  at  a  friend's  house,  who  took 
long  daily  rides  in  a  very  hilly  district,  regardless 
of  pace,  over  commons  covered  with  heath,  furze, 
and  stones,  through  rough  stony  lanes,  and  in 
every  variety  of  ground;  and,  although  his  shoes 
had  been  on  ten  days  when  I  sent  him  aAvay, 
he  returned  to  me  at  the  end  of  ^ve  weeks  with 
his  shoes  worn  out  certainly,  but  firm  on  his  feet 
and  the  clenches  all  close.  I  mention  this  last 
circumstance  because  it  is  a  proof  that  his  shoes 
had  been  put   on  with   proper  care;   for  whenever 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS.  47 

you  find  a  clench  rise  you  may  be  certain  that 
you  have  done  something  wrong;  either  the  crust 
did  not  bear  upon  the  shoe  all  round,  or  the  nail- 
holes  did  not  pass  straight  through  the  shoe,  or 
the  heads  of  the  nails  did  not  fill  the  bottom  of 
the  holes.  Any  one  of  these  things  may  cause  a 
clench  to  rise;  and  a  risen  clench  is  a  sure  sign 
of  careless  shoeing. 

I  may  mention,  as  further  proof  of  the  sufficiency 
of  three  nails  to  keep  on  a  shoe,  that  Colonel  Key, 
who  commands  the  loth  Hussars,  at  present  stationed 
at  Exeter,  has  four  horses  shod  with  three  nails 
only  in  each  fore-shoe.  Finding  how  my  horses 
were  shod,  he  was  induced  to  try  the  plan  upon  his 
hack,  and  felt  so  satisfied  with  the  result  that  he 
immediately  had  the  others  similarly  shod,  and  con- 
tinues to  do  so ;  and  an  officer  in  the  Prussian 
Hussars,  who  did  me  the  honor  to  translate  my 
book  upon  the  Horse's  Foot  into  German  and  pub- 
lish it  at  his  own  expense  at  Frankfort- sur-Maine, 
writes  me  that  his  horses  also  are  shod  with  three 


48  TREATISE    ON   HORSE-SHOEING. 

nails  only  in  each  fore-slioe,  and  that  he  finds  no 
difficulty  whatever  in  keeping  their  shoes  on. 

I  thmk  I  may  consider  that  I  have  now  proved 
beyond  dis|)ute  that  a  fore-shoe  can  be  kept  on 
by  three  nails ;  therefore,  lie  must  be  a  sorry  bungler 
indeed  who  cannot  manage  it  with  five. 


THE   END. 


STEREOTYPED  BY   L.  JOHNSON  &  CO. 
PHLLADELPHU. 


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Containing  the  Elements  of  Building,  Surveying,  and  Archi- 
tecture ;  with  Practical  Rules  and  Instructions  connected 
with  the  subject.  By  A.  C.  Smeaton,  Civil  Engineer,  &c. 
In  one  volume,  12mo $1.00 

CoxTEXTS: — The  Builder,  Carpenter,  Joiner,  Mason,  Plasterer,  Plumber, 
Painter,  Smith,  Practical  Geometry,  Surveyor,  Cohesive  Strength  of  Bodies, 
Architect. 

"  It  gives,  in  a  small  space,  the  most  thorough  directions  to  the  builder,  from 
the  laying  of  a  brick,  or  the  felling  of  a  tree,  up  to  the  most  elaborate  produc- 
tion of  ornamental  architecture.  It  is  scientific,  without  being  obscure  and 
unintelligible ;  and  every  house-carpenter,  master,  journeyman,  or  apprentice, 
Bhould  have  a  copy  at  hand  always." — Evening  Bulletin. 

"  Complete  on  the  subjects  on  which  it  treats.  A  most  useful,  practical  work." 
^Balt.  American. 

"  It  must  be  of  great  practical  utility." — Savannah  Republican. 

"  To  whatever  branch  of  the  art  of  building  the  reader  may  belong,  he  will  find 
in  this  something  valuable  and  calculated  to  assist  his  progress." — Farmer  and 
Mechanic. 

"  This  is  a  valuable  little  volume,  designed  to  assist  the  student  in  the  acqui- 
sition of  elementary  knowledge,  and  will  be  found  highly  advantageous  to  ev^ry 
young  man  who  has  devoted  himself  to  the  interesting  pursuits  of  which  ii 
treats."— Fo.  Herald. 

S 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD'S  PUBLICATIONS. 

Byrne — The     Practical    Metal-worker"^  s 

Assistant ; 

For  Tin-Plate  Workers,  Braziers,  Coppersmiths,  Zinc-Plate 
Ornamenters  and  Workers,  Wire  Workers,  Whitesmiths, 
Blacksmiths,  Bell  Hangers,  Jewellers,  Silver  and  Gold 
Smiths,  Electrotypers,  and  all  other  Workers  in  Alloys  and 
Metals.  Edited  by  Oliver  Byrne.  Complete  in  one  vo- 
lume, octavo $4.00 

It  treats  of  Casting,  Founding,  and  Forging;  of  Tongs  and  other  Tools; 
Degrees  of  Heat  and  Management  of  Fires ;  Welding ;  of  Heading  and  Swage 
Tools;  of  Punches  and  Anvils;  of  Hardening  and  Tempering;  of  Malleable 
Iron  Castings,  Case  Hardening,  Wrought  and  Cast  Iron.  The  management  and 
manipulation  of  Metals  and  Alloys,  Melting  and  Mixing.  The  management 
of  Furnaces,  Casting  and  Founding  with  Metallic  Moulds,  Joining  and  Working 
Sheet  Metal.  Peculiarities  of  the  different  Tools  emploj-ed.  Processes  depend- 
ant on  the  ductility  of  Metals.  Wire  Drawing,  Drawing  IMetal  Tubes,  Soldering. 
The  iise  of  the  Blowpipe,  and  every  other  known  Metal  Worker's  Tool. 

Byrne — The  Practical  Model  Calculator; 

For  the  Engineer,  Machinist,  Manufacturer  of  Engine  Work, 

Naval    Architect,    Miner,    and    Millwright.      By   Oliver 

Byrne,  Compiler  and  Editor  of  the  Dictionary  of  Machines, 

Mechanics,  Engine  Work  and  Engineering,  and  Author  of 

various  Mathematical  and  Mechanical  Works.     Illustrated 

by  numerous  engravings.     Complete  in  one  large  volume, 

octavo,  of  nearly  six  hundred  pages $3.50 

"  In  short  it  must  be  regarded  by  every  man  for  whose  more  especial  benefit 
it  is  intended,  as  a  complete  text-book  in  his  profession." — PUtsburyh  Union. 


Cabinet-maker'' s  and   Upholsterer's  Com- 

•pardon : 

Comprising  the  Rudiments  and  Principles  of  Cabinet-making 
and  Upholstery,  with  Familiar  Instructions,  illustrated  by. 
Examples  for  attaining  a  proficiency  in  the  Art  of  Drawing, 
as  applicable  to  Cabinet  Work ;  the  processes  of  Veneer- 
ing, Inlaying,  and  Buhl  Work;  the  Art  of  Dyeing  and 
Staining  Wood,  Bone,  Tortoise  Shell,  &c.  Directions  for 
Lackering,  Japanning,  and  Varnishing;  to  make  French 
Polish ;  to  prepare  the  best  Glues,  Cements,  and  Composi- 
tions, and  a  number  of  Receipts  particularly  useful  for 
Workmen  generally.  By  J.  Stokes.  In  one  volume, 
12mo.     With  Illustrations 75cts. 

"  A  large  amount  of  practical  information,  of  great  service  to  all  concerned  in 
those  branches  of  business." — Ohio  State  Journal. 
4 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD'S  PUBLICATIONS. 

Chemistry  Applied  to  Dyeing, 

By  James  Napier,  F.C.S.     Illustrated.     12mo $1.50 

Contexts. — General  Properties  of  Matter. — Heat,  Light,  Elements  of  Matter. 
Chemical  Affinity.  Non-Metallic  Substances. — Oxygen,  Hydrogen,  Nitrogen, 
Chlorine,  Sulphur.  Selenium.  Phosphorus,  Iodine,  Bromine,  Fluorine,  Silicum, 
Boron,  Carbon.  Metallic  Substances. — General  Properties  of  Metals,  Potassium, 
Sodium,  Lithium,  Soap.  Barium,  Strontium,  Calcium,  Magnesium,  Alminum, 
Manganese,  Iron,  Cobalt,  Nickel,  Zinc,  Cadmium,  Copper,  Lead,  Bismuth,  Tin, 
Titanium,  Chromium,  Vanadium,  Tungstenum  or  Wolfram,  Molybdenum,  Tella- 
rium.  Arsenic,  Antimony,  Uranium,  Cerium,  Mercury,  Silver,  Gold,  Platinum, 
Palladium,  Iridium,  Osniium,  Rhodium,  Lanthanium.  Mordants. — Red  Spirits, 
Barwood  Spirits,  Plumb  Spirits,  Yellow  Spirits,  Nitrate  of  Iron,  Acetate  of  Alu- 
mina, Black  Iron  Liquor,  Iron  and  Tin  for  RoyalBlues,  Acetate  of  Copper.  Vege- 
table Matters  used  in  Dyeing. — Galls,  Sumach,  Catechu,  Indigo,  Logwood,  Brazil- 
woods, Sandal-wood.  Barwood,  Camwood,  Fustic,  Young  Fustic,  Bark  or  Quer- 
citron, Flavine,  Weld  or  Wold,  Turmeric,  Persian  Berries,  Safflower,  Madder, 
Munjeet,  Annotta,  Alkanet  Root,  Archil.  Proposed  New  Vegetable  Dyes. — 
Sooranjee,  Carajuru,  Wongshy,  Aloes,  Pittacal,  Barbary  Root.  Animal  Matters 
used  in  Dyeing. — Cochineal,  Lake  or  Lac,  Kerms. 

This  will  be  found  one  of  the  most  valuable  books  on  the  subject  of  dyeing, 
ever  published  in  this  country. 

ColbuTJi — Tlie  Locomotive  Engine: 

Including  a  Description  of  its  Structure,  Rules  for  Estimating 
its  Capabilities,  and  Practical  Observations  on  its  Con- 
struction and  Management.  By  Zerah  Colbukn.  Illus- 
trated.    A  new  edition.     12mo 75  cts. 

"  It  is  the  most  practical  and  generally  useful  work  on  the  Steam  Engine  that 
we  have  seen." — Boston  Traveller. 

Distiller,  [The  Complete  Practical) 

l^Y  M.  Lafayette  Byrn,  M.D.   With  Illustrations.    12mo.$1.00 

"  So  simplified,  that  it  is  adapted  not  only  to  the  use  of  extensive  Distillers, 
but  for  every  farmer,  or  others  who  may  want  to  engage  in  Distilling." — Banner 
of  the  Union. 

Dyer  and  Colour-maker'' s  Companion: 

Containing  upwards  of  two  hundred  Eeceipts  for  making  Co- 
lours, on  the  most  approved  principles,  for  all  the  various 
styles  and  fabrics  now  in  existence;  with  the  Scouring 
Process,  and  plain  Directions  for  Preparing,  Washing-off, 
and  Finishing  the  Goods.  Second  edition.  In  one  volume, 
12mo 75  cts. 

*'  This  is  another  of  that  most  excellent  class  of  practical  books,  which  the 
publisher  is  giving  to  the  public.  Indeed,  we  believe  there  is  not,  for  manufac- 
turers, a  more  valuable  work,  having  been  prepared  for  and  expressly  adapted 
to  their  business." — Fanner  and  Mecluxnic. 

"It  is  a  valuable  book." — Otsego  Republican. 

"  We  have  shown  it  to  some  practical  men,  who  all  pronounced  it  the  com- 
pletest  thing  of  the  kind  they  had  seen." — N.  Y.  Nation. 

1*  6 


HENRY  CAREY  BAlxorS  PUBLICATIONS. 

Dyefs  Instructor: 

Comprising  Practical  Instructions  in  the  Art  of  Dyeing  Silk, 
Cotton,  Wool,  and  Worsted  and  Woollen  Goods,  as  single 
and  two-coloured  Damasks,  Moreens,  Camlets,  Eastings, 
Shot  Cobourgs,  Silk  Striped  Orleans,  Plain  Orleans  from 
White  and  Coloured  Warps,  Merinoes,  Woollens,  Yarns, 
&c.  &c.  Containing  nearly  Eight  Hundred  Keceipts,  to 
•which  is  added  a  Treatise  on  the  Art  of  Padding,  and  the 
Printing  of  Silk,  Warps,  Skeins,  and  Handkerchiefs,  and 
the  Tarious  Mordants  and  Colours  for  the  different  Styles 
of  such  work.  By  David  Smith,  Pattern  Dyer.  12mo, 
cloth $1.50 

"  Information  can  be  obtained  from  this  book  which  would  be  found  difficult 
to  gain  in  any  other  form." — Southern  Argus. 

Dyer  [The  Practical)  and  Scourer, 

By  Thomas  Love.     In  one  volume,  12mo.     (In  press.) 

Examination  of  Drugs^  Medicines,  Che- 
micals, d)c. 

As  to  their  Purity  and  Adulterations,  by  C.  H.  Peirce,  M.D., 
Translator  of  "  Stockhardt's  Chemistry,"  and  Examiner 
of  Medicines,  &c.  for  the  Port  of  Boston.     12mo $1.25 

Gilhart — Practical  Treatise  on  Banking, 

By  Jas.  Wm.  Gilbart,  F.R.S.  Edited  by  J.  Smith  Homans, 
Editor  Banker's  Magazine.     8vo $2.50 

Gregory — Mathematics  for  Practical  Men: 

Being  a  Common-Place  Book  of  Principles,  Theorems,  Rules, 
and  Tables,  in  various  Departments  of  Pure  and  Mixed 
Mathematics,  with  their  Applications,  especially  to  the 
pursuits  of  Surveyors,  Architects,  Mechanics,  and  Civil 
Engineers,  with  numerous  Engravings.  By  Olinthtjs 
Gregory,  LL.D.,  F.R.A.S. $1.50 

Household  Surgery ;  or,  Hints  on  Emer- 
gencies. 

hj  J.  F.  South,  one  of  the  Surgeons  of  St.  Thomas's  Hospi- 
tal. In  one  volume,  12mo,  sheep.  Illustrated  by  nearly 
fifty  Engravings $1.50 


HENRY  CAEEY  BAIRD'S  PUBLICATIONS. 


Johnston — Botanic  Practice  of  Medicine, 

By  Dr.  Wm.  Johnston.    24mo 38  cts. 

Leslie! s  [Miss]  Complete  Cookery: 

Directions  for  Cookery  in  its  Various  Branches.  By  Miss  Les- 
lie. 54th  Thousand.  Thoroughly  Revised,  with  the  Ad- 
dition of  New  Receipts.  In  one  volume,  12mo,  half-bound, 
or  in  sheep $1.00 

In  preparing  a  new  and  carefully  revised  edition  of  this  my  first  work  on 
cookery,  I  hare  introduced  improrements,  corrected  errors,  and  added  new 
receipts,  that  I  trust  will  on  trial  he  found  satisfectory.  The  success  of  tha 
book  (proved  hy  its  immense  and  increasing  circulation)  affords  conclusive  evi- 
dence that  it  has  obtained  the  approbation  of  a  large  number  of  my  country- 
women, many  of  whom  have  informed  me  that  it  has  made  practical  housewives 
of  young  ladies  who  have  entered  into  married  life  with  no  other  acquirements 
than  a  tew  showy  accomplishments.  Gentlemen,  also,  have  told  me  of  great 
improvements  in  the  family  table,  after  presenting  their  wives  with  this  manual 
of  domestic  cookery,  and  that,  after  a  morning  devoted  to  the  flitigues  of  busi- 
ness, they  no  longer  find  themselves  subjected  to  the  annoyance  of  an  ill-dresseJ 
dinner. — Preface. 

Leslie^ s  [Miss)   Two  Hundred  Receipts  in 

French  Cookery. 
A  new  edition,  in  cloth 25  eta. 

Lieher — Assay ej^'^s  Guide; 

Or,  Practical  Directions  to  Assayers,  Miners,  and  Smelters,  for 
the  Tests  and  Assays,  by  Heat  and  by  Wet  Processes,  of 
the  Ores  of  all  the  principal  Metals,  and  of  Gold  and  Silver 
Coins  and  Alloys.  By  Oscar  M.  Lieber,  late  Geologist  to 
the  State  of  Mississippi.    12mo.    With  Illustrations.  75  cts. 

"  Among  the  indispensable  works  for  this  purpose,  is  this  little  guide." — 
Artisan. 

Lyon — New  and  Improved  Tables : 

With  the  Method  of  their  Application  to  finding  the  Mean 
Heights  of  Cross  Sections,  and  the  Cubic  Contents  of  Exca- 
vations and  Embankments.    By  Patrick  Lyon.    8vo..$1.50 

Macfarlane — Propellers  and.  Steam  Navi- 
gation : 

With  Biographical  Sketches  of  Early  Inventors.  By  Robert 
Macfarlane,  C.E.,  Editor  of  the  "  Scientific  American." 
In  one  volume,   12mo.     Illustrated  by  over  eighty  Wood 

Engravings. Toots. 

7 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD'S  PUBLICATIONS. 

Morfit — Perfumery ;  Its  Mamifacture  and 

Use. 

With  Instructions  in  every  branch  of  the  Art,  and  Receipts  for 
all  the  Fashionable  Preparations ;  the  ■whole  forming  a  valu- 
able aid  to  the  Perfumer,  Druggist,  and  Soap  Manufac- 
turer. Illustrated  by  numerous  Wood-cuts.  From  the 
French  of  Celnart,  and  other  late  authorities.  With  Ad- 
ditions and  Improvements  by  Campbell  Morfit.  A  new 
and  revised  edition,  in  one  volume,  12mo,  cloth $1.60 

Morfit — The  Arts  of  Tanning  and  Cur- 

Tying : 

Theoretically  and  Practically  Considered  in  all  their  Details, 
being  a  full  and  comprehensive  Treatise  on  the  Manufac- 
ture of  the  various  kinds  of  Leather.  Illustrated  by  over 
two  hundred  Engravings.  Edited  from  the  French  of  De 
Fontenelle  and  Malapeyere.  With  numerous  Emendations 
and  Additions,  by  Campbell  Morfit,  Practical  and  Ana- 
lytical Chemist.     Complete  in  one  volume,  octavo $5.00 

This  important  Treatise  will  be  found  to  cover  the  whole  lield  in  the  most 
masterly  manner,  and  it  is  believed  that  in  no  other  branch  of  applied  science 
could  more  signal  service  be  rendered  to  American  Manufacturers. 

The  publisher  is  not  aware  that  in  any  other  work  heretofore  issued  in  this 
country,  more  space  has  been  devoted  to  this  subject  than  a  single  chapter ;  and 
in  offering  this  volume  to  so  large  and  intelligent  a  class  as  American  Tannera 
and  Leather  Dressers,  he  feels  confident  of  their  substantial  support  and  en- 
couragement. 

Contents. — Introduction,  Dignity  of  Labour,  Tan  and  Tannin,  Gallic  Acid, 
Extractive  Tanning  Materials,  Oak  Barks,  Barking  of  Trees,  Method  of  Esti- 
mating the  Tanning  Power  of  Astringent  Substances,  Tan,  the  Structure  and 
Composition  of  Skin,  Different  kinds  of  Skin  suitable  for  Tanning,  Preliminary 
Treatment  of  Skins,  Tanning  Process,  Improved  Processes,  Vauqueliu's  Pro- 
cess, Accelerating  Processes,  Keasley's.  Trumbull's,  Hibbards,  and  Loprieur's 
Processes,  Tanning  with  Extract  of  Oak-Bark,  Hemlock  Tanning,  with  Myrtle 
Plant,  English  Harness  Leather,  Calf  Skins,  Goat  and  Sheep  Skins,  Horse  Hides, 
Buck,  Wolf,  and  Dog  Skins,  Buffalo,  or  "Grecian"  Leather,  Russia  Leather, 
Bed  Skins,  Wallachia  Leather,  Mineral  Tanning,  Texture  and  Quality  of  Leather, 
and  the  Means  of  Discovering  its  Defects,  Tawing,  Hungary  Leather,  Oiled 
Leather,  Tanning  as  practised  by  the  Mongol  Tartars,  Shagreen,  Parchment, 
Leather  Bottles,  Tanning  of  Cordage  and  Sail  Cloth,  Glazed  or  "  Patent"  Lea- 
ther, Helverson's  Process  for  Rendering  Hides  Hard  and  Transparent,  Currying, 
Currying  of  Calf  Skins,  Currying  of  Goat  Skins,  Red  Leather,  Fair  Leather, 
Water  Proof  Dressing,  Perkins'  Machine  for  Pommelling  and  Graining  Leather, 
Splitting,  Shaving,  Eleshing  and  Cleansing  Machines,  Embossing  of  Leather, 
Gut  Dressing. 


Mortimer — Pyroteclinisf s  Companio7i ; 

Or,  A  Familiar  System  of  Fire-works.     By  G.  W.  Mortimer. 

Illustrated  by  numerous  Engravings.     12mo 75  eta. 

S 


HENRY  CAlUCY  BAIRD'S  PTJBIICATIONS. 

Napier — Manual  of  Electro- Metallurgy : 

Including  the  Application  of  the  Art  to  Manufacturing  Processes. 
By  James  Napier.  From  the  second  London  edition,  re- 
vised and  enlarged.  Illustrated  by  Engravings.  In  one 
volume,  12mo $1.25 

Napier's  Electro-Metallurgy  is  generally  regarded  as  the  very  best  practical 
treatise  on  the  subject  in  the  English  language. 

Contexts. — History  of  the  Art  of  Electro-Metallurgy,  Description  of  Galvanic 
Bal  teries,  and  their  respective  Peculiarities,  Electrotype  Processes,  Miscellaneous 
Applications  of  the  Process  of  Coating  with  Copper,  Bronzing,  Decomposition  of 
Metals  upon  one  another,  Electro-Plating,  Electro-GUding,  Results  of  Experi- 
ments on  the  Deposition  of  other  Metals  as  Coatings,  Theoretical  Observations. 


Neill — Fruity  Floiver^  and  Kitchen  Garden. 

By  Patrick  Neill,  LL.D.,  F.R.S.E.,  Secretary  to  the  Royal 
Caledonian  Horticultural  Society.  Adapted  to  the  United 
States,  from  the  fourth  edition,  revised  and  improved  by  the 
Author.  Illustrated  by  fifty  Wood  Engravings  of  Hot- 
houses, &c.  &c.    In  one  volume,  12mo $1.25 

"  This  volume  supplies  a  desideratum  much  felt,  and  gives  within  a  moderate 
compass  all  the  horticultxiral  information  necessary  for  practical  use." — Newark 
Mercury. 

"  A  valuable  addition  to  the  horticulturist's  library." — BaMimore  Patriot. 


Nicholson — Book-binder^ s  (The  Practical) 

Manual : 

Containing  Full  Directions  for  all  the  different  Branches  of 
Book-binding  and  Marbling.  By  James  B.  Nicholson. 
Illustrated.    12mo.     (In  press.) 


Norris's  Hand-look  for  Locomotive  Eii- 

gineers  and  Machinists  : 

Comprising  the  Calculations  for  Constructing  Locomotives,  Man- 
ner of  setting  Valves,  &c.  &c.  By  Septimus  Norris,  Civil 
and  Mechanical  Engineer.  In  one  volume,  12mo,  with  Illus- 
trations  $1.50 

"  With  pleasure  do  we  meet  with  such  a  work  as  Messrs.  Norris  and  Baird 
have  given  us." — Artisan. 

"  In  this  work  he  has  given  us  what  are  called  '  the  secrets  of  the  busir-ss.' 
in  the  rules  to  construct  locomotives,  in  order  that  the  million  should  be  learned 
in  all  things." — Scientific  American. 

0 


HENEY  CAREY  BAIRD'S  PUBLICATIONS. 

Ny Strom — A  Treatise  on  Screw- Propellers 

and  their  Steam-Eiigines : 

With  Practical  Rules  and  Examples  by  which  to  Calculate  and 
Construct  the  same  for  any  description  of  Vessels.  By  J. 
W.   Ntstrom.     Illustrated  by  over  thirty  large  Working 

Drawings.     In  one  volume,  octavo $3.50 

This  is  the  fullest  treatise  on  the  subject  ever  published  in  this  country. 

Overman — The  Manufacture  of  Iron  in 

all  its  Various  Branches : 

To  which  is  added  an  Essay  on  the  Manufacture  of  Steel,  by 

Frederick  Overman,  Mining  Engineer,  with  one  hundred 

and  fifty  Wood  Engravings.    Third  edition.   In  one  volume, 

octavo,  five  hundred  pages $5.00 

"We  have  now  to  announce  the  appearance  of  another  valuable  work  on  the 
subject,  which,  in  our  humble  opinion,  supplies  any  deficiency  which  late  im- 
provements and  discoveries  may  have  caused,  from  the  lapse  of  time  since  the 
date  of  '  Mushet'  and  '  Schrivenor.'  It  is  the  production  of  one  of  our  trans- 
atlantic brethren,  Mr.  Fredericli  Overman,  Mining  Engineer ;  and  we  do  not 
hesitate  to  set  it  down  as  a  work  of  great  importance  to  all  connected  with  the 
iron  interest;  one  which,  while  it  is  sufficiently  technological  fuUy  to  explain 
chemical  analysis,  and  the  various  phenomena  of  iron  under  different  circum- 
stances, to  the  satisfaction  of  the  most  fastidious,  is  written  in  that  clear  and 
comprehensive  style  as  to  be  available  to  the  capacity  of  the  humblest  mind, 
and  consequently  will  be  of  much  advantage  to  those  works  where  the  proprie- 
tors may  see  the  desirability  of  placing  it  in  the  hands  of  theh  operatives." — 
London  Morning  Journal. 

Painter^    [The)  Gilder ,  and    Varnisher^s 

Companion : 

Containing  Rules  and  Regulations  for  every  thing  relating  to 
the  arts  of  Painting,  Gilding,  Varnishing,  and  Glass-stain- 
ing :  numerous  useful  and  valuable  Receipts ;  Tests  for  the 
Detection  of  Adulterations  in  Oils,  Colours,  &c. ;  and  a 
Statement  of  the  Diseases  and  Accidents  to  which  Painters, 
Gilders,  and  Varnishers  are  particularly  liable ;  with  the 
simplest  methods  of  Prevention  and  Remedy.  Fifth  edition. 
In  one  volume,  small  12mo,  cloth 75  cts. 

Paper- Hanger'' s  [The)  Companion: 

In  which  the  Practical  Operations  of  the  Trade  are  systematic- 
ally laid  down;  with  copious  Directions  Preparatory  to 
Papering ;  Preventions  against  the  effect  of  Damp  in  Walls ; 
the  various  Cements  and  Pastes  adapted  to  the  several  pur- 
poses of  the  trade ;  Observations  and  Directions  for  the 
Panelling  and  Ornamenting  of  Rooms,  &c.  &c.     By  James 

Arrowsmith.     In  one  volume,  12mo 75  cts. 

1« 


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Perkins — Practical  Treatise  on  Gas  and 

Ventilation. 
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Practical  [The)  Surveyor'' s  Ckdde: 

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portant matters  in  the  book,  will  be  found  the  following : 

Instructions  in  levelling  and  profiling,  with  a  new  and  speedy  plan  of  setting 
grades  on  rail  and  plank  roads ;  the  method  of  inflecting  curves ;  the  descrijv 
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through  any  mine  or  iron  works,  and  to  correct  the  deflections  of  the  needle  by 
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Scott — The  Practical  Cotton'Spinner  and 

Manufacturer ;    or,  the  Manager  and  Overlooker' s 
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This  work  contains  a  Comprehensive  System  of  Calculations 

for  Mill   Gearing  and  Machinery,  from   the  first  moving 

power,  through  the  difi'erent  processes  of  Carding,  Drawing, 

Slabbing,    Roving,    Spinning,    and   Weaving,    adapted   to 

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Shele  De  Vere — Sketches  of  Comparative 

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Templeton —  The    Practical    Examinator 

on  Steam  and  the  Steam  Engine: 

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Treatise  [A)  on  a  Box  of  Instruments, 

And  the  Slide  Rule,  with  the  Theory  of  Trigonometry  and 

Logarithms,   including    Practical    Geometry,    Surveying, 

^  Measuring  of  Timber,  Cask  and  Malt   Gauging,  Heights 

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Walker — Electrotype  Manipulation. 

Being  the  Theory  and  Plain  Instructions  in  the  Art  of  Working 
in  Metals,  by  Precipitating  them  from  their  Solutions, 
through  the  agency  of  Galvanic  or  Voltaic  Electricity  ;  also 
in  the  Arts  of  Electro-Plating,  Electro-Gilding,  and  Elec- 
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type in  the  Arts.  By  Charles  V.  Walker,  Hon.  Sec.  of 
the  London  Electrical  Society,  &c.  Illustrated.  New  edi- 
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Walter  &  Smith — Cottage  and  Villa  Ar- 
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Gray — Poetical  Works  of  Thomas  Gray : 

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Lady  of  the  Lake. 

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Lalla  Rookh, 

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Poets  and  Poetry  of  England  in  the  Nine- 

teentli  Century. 

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